Epoxy|How to Use Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy Resin to Make Pendants
Posted 26 January 2012 by adminAbout Epoxy,This blog is about how do you paint furniture & buy antique furniture paint.
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www.beadaholique.com – Beadaholique’s Julie demonstrates how to use Easycast Clear Casting Epoxy to make pendants. Measure equal amounts of resin and hardener then mix. Add colorants, granite powders or found objects, pour into bezel pendants and allow to cure. J’adore Paris Steampunk www.beadaholique.com You can find the supplies in this video at Beadaholique.com: Resins and Glazes » Resins www.beadaholique.com Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy Enamel Resin 8 oz SKU: TRC-51 www.beadaholique.com ICE Resin Jewelers Grade Clear Casting Epoxy Resin 8 oz Kit SKU: TRC-10 www.beadaholique.com Casting Epoxy Resin Mixing Cup Set With Brushes and Sticks SKU: TRC-01 www.beadaholique.com Casting Epoxy Resin Mold Release And Conditioner 4 oz. SKU: TRC-04 www.beadaholique.com
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Read more onA 3D Printer That Works With Chocolate? Now You've Got My Attention
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@Beadaholique I would suggest trying a test piece making sure the measurements are exact (mix 1 oz, mixing less can cause problems too), the temperature is even (around 70 – 75 degrees is good), let your resin sit for 5 minutes before pouring to let some of the bubbles escape (which will give you a more glass like look), and pour a thin layer. I hope this helps!
@Beadaholique I have also had a yellowing happen if the resin itself is getting a bit old (not yellowing over time of finished products but yellowing of new pours if the liquid resin is older). For a crystal clear glass-like affect, I prefer Ice Resin. It’s a bit more expensive then Easy Cast, but it’s known for that glass-like look. I have had even Ice Resin yellow though when it gets old (again, not yellowing of finished goods over time but yellowing of new pours using old liquid).
@FoxFind Easy Cast sometimes does cast a slight yellow tint, it should not be too obvious though and it sounds like yours is pretty apparent. I have had a “yellow” look appear when the measurements were slightly off or if there was a temperature change during curing. Also, if I pour a thick layer, the yellow is more obvious then if I pour several thinner layers.
I was using easy cast and it came out a yellowish color…Is that any fault on my part or is it supposed to be that color? It’s still clear, but I want them to be glass-like. The way it is now looks like there is a yellow film over it.
@Beadaholique ok thanks I’ll try that then. Thanks for your help
@bebechicago Yes, a lamp would work fine. Make sure it does not get too hot though, just try to keep it between that 70 -85 degrees and at a consistent temperature throughout the cure time. I always try to make sure there are no fans or drafts blowing on my resin while it’s curing.
@Beadaholique I’ve warmed mine up before with the water but I haven’t even thought of the air temp around it. I’ll be sure I watch that next time. Could I put the piece under a lamp to cure? so that I know it will stay warm?
thanks for the help.
@Beadaholique I doubt you would need more then two layers with a bottle cap, but if you are filling all the way to the top, you could even try 3 layers. Best of luck and keep us posted how it goes!
@Beadaholique Since the lighter tends to pop the larger bubbles and the ones closer to the surface, you can also try filling your bottle caps in layers. I find that if I pour my resin too thick, I end up with more bubbles and clouds. Try pouring a really thin layer of resin and remove any bubbles with a lighter. Let that layer fully cure overnight with something to shield it from getting dust on it. Then pour another thin layer of resin and remove any bubbles from that layer with the lighter.
@Beadaholique Also, try mixing your resin at a slower speed to reduce the number of bubbles which become present in the first place (just gently swipes of your stir stick). You can also try to vibrate away the bubbles. I know some people put their resin pieces (which are on some type of board or flat transportable surface) on a vibrating back massager (the flat kind). The vibration brings the bubbles to the surface and makes them easier to pop.
@bebechicago Resin can be a finicky medium to work in, I am sorry it has been frustrating (it was for me as well for awhile). What temperature is your house? Resin does best in a warm environment – between 70 -85 degrees. I accidently left the air conditioner on once overnight and when I looked at my pieces in the morning, they were all cloudy. Warming up your resin before you begin also helps. Place the sealed resin bottles in a large bowl of warm water for 30 minutes before starting.
Ok so I have made at least 4 bottle cap pendants that are cloudy with microscopic bubbles. they were like the bubbles that you had in the beginning but went away after 5 minutes. mine never go away. I have tried using a lighter and that pops big bubbles but the little ones don’t go away! please what can I do to fix this? all of my pendants are cloudy and I feel like I have tried everything.
@Beadaholique If you do use a bbq lighter, be careful about getting the tip too close to a magnet as it will attract it and could go into your resin (very dangerous). If this happens, toss out your lighter and do not use again, it will be burning resin. I learned this the hard way when making resin bottle cap magnets, so just be careful.
@ducktapeeverything Hi! Yes, you can definitely just use a big lighter, such as a barbecue lighter. The advantage to the torch is it holds a continuous even flame. You can purchase the torch at Beadaholique – (more will be in stock soon). There’s a list of supplies and links in the video description underneath the video.
i have a questions:) do u have to use a toech like that? can u use a big lighter?? if not where would u get something like tht?
@Beadaholique Ahh! I see! I think my 1:1 ratio was off when mixing.. the instructions weren’t as specific as your video so I may have done mine wrong.. I’ll remix a new mixture and try it again! Thank you again for your descriptive video – I never knew about the heat to get rid of bubble method!!
@Beadaholique I had a batch where my measuring was off (it needs to be exact 50% A, 50% B) and it never cured – even weeks later. Drying times are also going to vary based on temperature and humidity. I would suggest not touching the resin and just waiting the full 3 days to see what happens.
@Izarra Hi! As the resin cures, it will start out completely liquid “wet” and then become progressively more tacky and sticky until it eventually hardens to a solid piece (so if you touch it after 6 hours, it will be sticky). If after 24 hours your resin is still sticky, then probably something went a little askew in the measuring, perhaps there was more of part A or part B? It should be hard to the touch after 24 hours and completely cured after 3 days.
Thank you so much… I have a question, after mixing mine and sticking it into molds, the resin becomes “sticky” and doesn’t harden yet – is this normal while it’s doing its 24hr curing?
@Beadaholique The first one you would need to sculpt your knife and you would only have about 1 minute to do so as it sets up VERY quickly. If you had a mold though, you could press it into the mold. The second is a liquid which is intended to be used to make a mold, but I don’t see why you couldn’t pour the liquid into a pre-made mold and then what you would pull out would be a flexible rubber. Just a couple ideas, you will probably need to do some experimenting and trial and error. Good Luck!